Installing a New Shower Unit
A successful shower installation needs careful preparation and a great deal of work. Most of the times, you will need to do three types of jobs: framing walls, installing the pipes, and ending up walls.
Preparation
Firstly, you must decide on the kind of shower that you want to install. It is very important to ascertain whether the chosen shower is capable of dealing with specific systems and can control a safe level of water through the boiler. Most shower systems nowadays are created to be versatile to various water pressures (such as saved hot water and cold mains).
It is likewise important to take into consideration the water pressure and the planning of the piping and drainage for the shower
Different Types of Shower Units
Push-on Mixer: The hose pipe and spray parts of the push-on mixer shower system can be connected to the bath tap based on your requirement, and the water temperature can be adjusted via the taps. Push-on mixers are inexpensive and extremely simple to install. Nevertheless, although the pipe connection is easy, it is quickly removed. Additionally, it is bothersome to change the temperature level.
Bath/ Shower Mixer: The hose and spray of this type of shower are integrated with a bath mixer tap, and the temperature level can be adjusted through the bath taps. It is a really cheap option and no additional pipes is involved. Nevertheless, the bath/shower mixers likewise experience bothersome temperature control alternatives.
Manual Mixer: The hose pipe and spray of a manual mixer shower system belong of the wall system and the hot and cold water products are connected to a single valve The temperature and pressure of the water are controlled through either one or a variety of knobs (in more pricey showers). Although temperature control is a lot easier in manual mixer types, they are more costly than the formerly mentioned mixers. They likewise require additional pipes of cold and hot water system pipes.
Thermostatic Mixer: The hose pipe and spray of this shower type are a part of the wall unit and the hot and cold water materials are connected to a single valve here too. It is complete with an integrated stabiliser to self-adjust the water temperature and to avoid it from ending up being too hot. One of the most significant advantages of a thermostatic mixer shower type consists of practical temperature control. However, it is the most expensive of the various mixer options.
Power Shower: A power shower is a single system consisting of an effective electric pump that can changing both the water pressure and temperature level. This kind of shower can be fitted if there is water system from a cold water tank and a hot water cylinder. A power shower makes the adjustment of both pressure and temperature level easy. On the other hand, it disagrees for water heated straight by the shower or where the water is supplied by a mix boiler under mains pressure.
Electric Shower: An electrical shower is plumbed into a mains cold water supply and it heats up the water electrically. It is very important to keep in mind that for this shower type to be set up, the mains pressure requires to be at least 0.7 kg/sq cm (10lb/sq in). The system enables the temperature level and pressure to be adjusted by means of a knob. Designs with temperature stabilisers are much better as they remain untouched by other taps in other places in use within the family. A significant disadvantage of electrical showers is that the control knob just enables the option of high temperatures at less pressure, or lower temperatures at a greater pressure. This is troublesome in the winter season when the spray is typically weak and the mains water is cooler. Nevertheless, this problem is dealt with in some models which are readily available with a winter/summer setting.
Method
Depending on the type of shower you want to install, the shower head must either be fitted in order to avoid its contact with the water in the bath listed below or the base tray, or it must have a check valve.
Before starting, it is a good idea to mark the positions of the shower head and control, and to prepare the pipe-work involved. Furthermore, the drainage system to eliminate the waste water will require to be planned. Both positions of the cable television route and the shower switch will also need to be thought about if an instant or electric shower unit is being installed.
Use the direction guide supplied with the shower unit to fit the shower control.
Before fitting the pipes that will provide the water to top plumbers Canberra the shower system, it is very important to cut off the supply of water. In order to secure the pipes, they ought to be given a waterproof covering and also fitted with separating valves. The pipelines can then be buried into the wall and plastered over to neaten the general look.
Fit the base tray, shower head, and fittings.
Connect the main shower control to the pipelines that will be providing the water (This might need a female screw thread adapter).
Reconnect the supply of water and test the pipes for any leakages, as some might require tightening.
If you are setting up an electrical shower, keep in mind to switch off the electrical energy supply before making any electrical connections. Once these connections have been made (there must be guidance within the user's manual), the power supply can be changed back on.
Adjusting Water Pressure to Match Your Shower
The cold water reservoir can be lifted to a higher height (often as little as 150mm (6inches)) by fitting a strong wooden support below it-- perhaps composed of struts and blockboards. If you select this option, the main and distribution pipes will likewise need to be raised to meet the new height of the reservoir.
Alternatively, a booster pump plumber Canberra (a single pump or a dual/twin pump) can be fitted. Whichever type is chosen, it should be linked into the power supply in order to operate.
Piping and Drainage
It is best to utilize 15mm diameter supply pipes, and make the runs to the shower as brief and straight as possible so as to keep optimal pressure and reduce heat loss. Furthermore, by minimising the use of elbows for pipeline corners, you can decrease the resistance in the circulation of the water supply. You can achieve this by flexing the pipelines instead.
Most Common Mistakes
# Breaching or ignoring regional code restrictions.
# Utilizing pipes that are too small.
# Connecting copper to galvanized without using a brass or dielectric fitting in between the two.
# Not using tape or pipe substance at threaded joints.
# Not leveling your components when installing them.
# Not setting up an air space filling for fixtures.
# Cutting supply stub outs too short to install the shutoff valves onto after the completed wall remains in place.
# Not appropriately aligning tubing into fittings or stop valves. (Requiring the nut onto the compression ring at an angle when the tubing is at an angle will cause a leak.)
# When turning the water back on in your home, always run the outside pipe valve or flush your toilets to bleed dirt and air from the lines. This debris can trigger problems in your sink faucets and other plumbing trim.
